The end of the trip was nearing, we waved goodbye to beautiful, breathtaking Bolivia and
hopped across the border to Awesome Argentina, the land where the trip had begun. It
was a slow process, Argentina is a country that does nothing quickly, usually stopping to
have a BBQ for a few hours in between, but eventually we were in and the change was
immediate. From the chaos of Bolivia we got to the peace and tranquility of the
Argentinean siesta, from a country that often felt 3rd world to one that felt like Southern
Europe.
Ithaca goes back to Argentina |
Si and Em have fun with Argentinian bureaucracy |
Forget Tipperary - it's a long way to Ushuaia! |
Quebrada de las Conchas |
Devil's throat |
Our drives were leisurely and we made a few very pleasant stops en route, we even found time to head to a vinyard just outside Cafeyate for a spot of wine tasting!
Wine tasting |
Autumn vines |
Parrot plague |
San Carlos chillies |
Enjoying the beer |
Kitchen with a view |
Ann relaxes at the ranch |
Just when we thought our stay couldn’t get any more lovely Anne and Alain put on an
asado for us (Argentinean BBQ) with a sheep they’d sacrificed for us from the farm which
they baked in a traditional round oven, followed by homemade tarts and all washed down
with their own beer, their homemade wine and even a beer/wine concoction which was
40% alcohol and Alain claimed, with a glint in his eye, it had mostly been snapped up by
the Rothschilds!
There was also time to head back to Cafeyate down the road to try some more wine, relax
in the laid back little town and even have a taste of the local wine ice cream - MUCH better
than it sounds, it is amazing!
Meanwhile back at the ranch on our final evening Wayne and Danielle along with Ellie and
Johnny offered to repeat their hugely sucessful pizzas with the help of a giant pizza oven.
It was a wonderful few days and we really had to drag ourselves away at the end of it!
It was time to continue our journey South, we were heading down to La Rioja province to visit a high altitude lake called Laguna Brava just outside of the town of Villa Union. We drove South down Route 40, a road we had got to know well down in the Western parts of Patagonia many months before which took us through tiny towns complete with Gauchos in berets and dust and roadside BBQ grills - it was about as Argentinean as you can imagine!
We bushcamped en route in a big plain with, lo and behold, lots of bushes! Which our regular readers will know are not easy to find in Argentinean bushcamps, the fact that they were rather spiky bushes just added to the fun of wild toilets! It was our final bushcamp of the trip and with the fire going we sat around full of tasty sausages and made the most of the bushcamping experience, something everyone in the group had learned to love over the 6 months.
The trip was winding down and Emma and Simon had begun to relax and think that with
so few days left what could possibly go wrong, but South America is always full of
surprises, we turned on to the Cuesta de Miranda, a beautiful mountain pass through red
rock, the rain was spitting down and we were driving in and out of patches of cloud hoping
that the other side of the mountains would be blue skies, the road got worse and worse,
from gravel to mud to water, until we suddenly realised that the road was in fact shut for
resurfacing (apparently putting a sign up to tell anyone the road was shut didn’t cross
anybody’s mind!) So rather than going on a 300km detour we cut our losses and headed
East instead to the city of Cordoba for a couple of nights.
We were definitely on the final leg now as signs to Buenos Aires, our final destination,
began to appear with smaller and smaller numbers of kilometers next to them. But we had one final stop to make and that was for our last night together under canvas in a small
municipal campsite in Rosario on the shores of the Parana River.
Alain prepares the sheep |
Asado time - Belgian style |
Lamb chops for a starter |
Simon, AJ and Em enjoy the beer |
Cafeyate |
Wayne |
Pizza Cook Group |
Wayne and Johnny supervise the fire |
Anne and Alain join us for pizzas |
It was a wonderful few days and we really had to drag ourselves away at the end of it!
It was time to continue our journey South, we were heading down to La Rioja province to visit a high altitude lake called Laguna Brava just outside of the town of Villa Union. We drove South down Route 40, a road we had got to know well down in the Western parts of Patagonia many months before which took us through tiny towns complete with Gauchos in berets and dust and roadside BBQ grills - it was about as Argentinean as you can imagine!
We bushcamped en route in a big plain with, lo and behold, lots of bushes! Which our regular readers will know are not easy to find in Argentinean bushcamps, the fact that they were rather spiky bushes just added to the fun of wild toilets! It was our final bushcamp of the trip and with the fire going we sat around full of tasty sausages and made the most of the bushcamping experience, something everyone in the group had learned to love over the 6 months.
Last bushcamp |
Cook group |
Bushcamp |
Steve & Mike (or is it Mike & Steve?) |
Cordoba |
Steve has an ice-cream - a pretty regular occurrence |
It wouldn’t be right to camp our last night in Argentina without cooking up some steak so we whipped up a final camp feast of chunky Chorizo Steaks over the BBQ before tucking up in our tents for the last time.
Last cook group dinner |
Steak time! |
Emma cleaning - it's a big job on your own! Thankfully we had a group to help! |
Cleaning tents |
Tee does a wonderful job of cleaning out the boxes |
We went out for a meal at the same restaurant we had been to our very first night and reminisced about our highlights and less than perfect moments, there were plenty of the former and not so many of the latter, some of the group’s favourite moments were some of the hardest times, slogging to the top of a mountain or camping in 120kmph winds, getting rained on, being tired, none of it seemed to matter anymore. Overlanding is an adventure shared with other likeminded people and everyone agreed that it had been the people that had made it, we have had the honour to travel with some wonderful people and experience and see things we’ll remember for the rest of our lives. We have survived the winds of Patagonia, ants of Brazil, dust of Peru and altitude of Bolivia. We have danced and drunk with the Colombians, hiked through Chile and Argentina and marvelled at the wonderful creatures of Ecuador. It has been an adventure for everyone and we will have lots of stories to tell back at home to all our loved ones waiting for us. But for now it’s don’t cry for me Argentina, adios South America and on to the next adventure!
Thankyou to everyone who joined us on the trip and all of you who have been keeping up with the blog, South America has shown us its warm heart and opened our eyes to this fascinating part of the world. It has truly been an epic adventure!
I’ll let Danielle have the last word with another fantastic poem...
It's been 27 weeks,
Precisely 189 days,
That we've travelled together,
Putting up with each other's ways.
From sunny Argentina
The land of steak and red wine,
To chaotic Bolivia,
We've survived just fine!
From the picturesque mountains
Of Torres del Paine,
To the Brazilian Pantanal
And buckets of rain!
As Ithaca clocked up the miles,
And our passport got more stamps,
We've enjoyed sunsets and salsa,
And learnt the art of a bush camp!
To the top of Villarrica,
An achievement for all.
To the 'end of the world' in Ushuaia,
Where snow began to fall.
Setting up the tent,
On Patagonia's cold, windswept plains,
There were times when we grumbled,
But it was all fun and games!
From Carnival fever
With foam, frills and feathers,
To throwing on the back pack,
And hiking in all kinds of weathers!
We've indulged on Patagonian lamb,
And Colombian chicken and chips,
Not forgetting Christmas dinner
From 'Cook Group 6'!
Pizzas, empanadas, sausages too,
As well as ice cream,
We've had more than a few!
From riding dune buggies in the desert,
To getting soaked under Iguacu Falls,
To drinking and dancing with the locals
On many a bar crawl!
We've fell in love with llamas
And the simplicity of Peru,
We've shopped out in Ecuador,
And now have an extra bag or two!
From ruins to waterfalls,
We've experienced it all,
But which one was the best?
It's a tough one to call.
We've shared laughter and tears,
Future dreams and hopes,
As well as many a late night,
Getting to know the ropes.
If we weren't 'overlanders' at the start,
We certainly are now,
We can cope without a shower,
But Wi-Fi, we're still not sure how!
Alas, 'All good things
Must come to an end'
But what we take with us
Are treasured memories...
And new friends.
Farewell Odyssey Group 2013-14!!!